The Details of Mr. Classic’s Haberdashery MTM & Bespoke

Now if you have a suit that was made Bespoke , flip over your lapel and you will see these fine little dots. That is not a tailoring mistake or suit defect but rather a way of seeing the workmanship of your master tailor. This meticulous process involves skilled artisans using a needle and thread to sew the lapel to the collar and front of the jacket, creating a seamless and elegant finish. Hand-stitching allows for greater precision and control over the shaping and structure of the lapel, resulting in a more refined and luxurious look. This attention to detail is often found in high-quality, bespoke or made-to-measure suits, where craftsmanship and fine tailoring are prioritized.

A roped sleeve head is a tailoring technique used in the construction of suit jackets or blazers, where the sleeve head is shaped and padded to create a raised, rounded appearance resembling a rope. This distinctive feature adds structure and definition to the shoulder area of the garment, giving it a sharp and structured look. The roped sleeve head is achieved by carefully manipulating and shaping the padding and canvas inside the sleeve head during construction. This technique is often found in high-end, bespoke tailoring and is considered a sign of craftsmanship and attention to detail.

A natural suit shoulder refers to a type of shoulder construction in a suit jacket that is designed to follow the natural shape of the wearer's shoulder without any little padding or additional structure. This creates a more relaxed and casual look compared to a structured shoulder with more padding. A natural shoulder is often seen in more casual or unstructured suit styles, such as unlined or soft-shouldered jackets, and is favored for its comfort and ease of movement. This style of shoulder construction is popular in more contemporary and relaxed suit designs.

Specifically this shoulder hails from Rome Italy but these days it’s known more so as the Neapolitan shoulder or simply the Italian shoulder. With little to no padding inside, it adds a far more relaxed casual feel to the suit structure. This shoulder allows for far more flexibility and comfort. The effect of the pleats decorating the arm,  gives the wearer more room for movement. Also a nice visual effect.

The Notch Lapel is what you would look to find on most blazers and business suits. This lapel is for the individual who does not want to stand out too much. Also for those who want the flexibility of being able to wear this jacket as a stand alone piece with jeans or chinos. For a more casual looking outfit. 

The Peak lapel unlike its counterpoint the notch, screams attention. It’s sharp edge rising up to the skies like an eagles wings, is all about letting all onlookers know “ I know style“ . It is definitely a more fashion statement and bold addition to the suit. For those individuals wanting to make more of a statement, this is definitely for you. 

The Shawl lapel can be seen in more formal settings on a tuxedo. This lapel leads towards an individual wanting to portray a more debonair classy look. It can commonly be seen in either satin or velvet. 

Coming off the edge of your lapel, either peak or notch, you will find a buttonhole, and if it is a well crafted bespoke or MTM suit it can be a Milanese buttonhole. This particular buttonhole is a tailors signature. The calling card to all fine tailors that this was a well crafted suit.

You have definitely noticed on your jacket sleeve these rows of buttons. there might be 2-4 or even 5 if you want that Italian look but did you notice if they are working buttons? So, as far back as when men were always seen in suits, these functioning buttons were known as surgeon cuffs. For the reason being that a surgeon would unbutton them to perform surgery and then be able to roll them back down, button up and continues his day. This was all so he might perform his duties without having to remove his jacket. Now a days it is just a craftsman‘s flair. All the buttonholes done by hand. 

The Jetted pockets are going to be seen more so on your tuxedo than suits. It allows for a sleeker look overall. Now you can have that same style pocket on your suit or blazer and it will work just fine. There is also a cheat way getting two for one. Once you read about the “Flap Pocket” you‘ll understand. 

The Flap Pocket is the most common you will find on a suit or blazer. It is pretty much a jetted pocket with a flap over the top which has a purpose of keeping things out of your pocket like dust or water. Also to keep things from jumping out, like keys or your phone. Now you really shouldn’t be using these pockets to store thing in anyway. 

This uniquely shaped pocket is called the patch pocket. In Italy where it originates from it is called  “ a pignata “. Of course being from Italy it has a casual flair to it. This type of pocket you would not put on a business suit or tuxedo.